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<p>Originally published in 1998. From its contested origins in nineteenth-century California; through its popularity among the smart set of the 1930s world leaders of the 1940s and the men in the gray flannel suits of the 1950s; to its resurgence among today&#39;s retro-hipsters: Lowell Edmunds traces the history and cultural significance of the cocktail H. L. Mencken called the only American invention as perfect as a sonnet.</p><p>--Lori D. Kranz &quot;Well Fed Network&quot;</p>