The Companion Guide to Wales

The question posed to the author once by a prospective visitor to Wales - 'What is there to see?' - is not susceptible of a short or quick answer. For the delights of Wales are cumulative and understated: a succession of small country churches rather than great city cathedrals a labyrinth of byways away from the few highways details of vernacular architecture rather than grand edifices the thirteenth-century Edwardian castles being the exception that proves this rule. A cultural tradition rooted in the austerity and erudition of the Celtic saints a tradition more confirmed than repudiated by the Reformation is best appreciated by lovers of small things. Wales is a country where small is beautiful. For although the juggernaut of globalisation may be threatening the Welsh way of life with extinction in the words of a contemporary Welsh folk anthem: 'In spite of everything we're still here.' DAVID BARNES is a Fellow of the Royal Historical Society and teaches at the University of Wales Aberystwyth.